|
|
ICANEWS
Marzo 2005, Año 2 # 7 |
|
| Crossing The Andes |
| por Hernán
Casanova
hc@interdevelopers.com |
|
|
Forty
degrees during the day; four degrees below zero during the
night; sleeping on top of stones; dust storms; no bathroom;
dizzy heights; ten-hour journeys riding a mule with the
character of an Irish mother. Sounds like an ad for a great
vacation? Maybe not, but that was the daily routine I found
myself experiencing last January during the crossing of
the Andes by mule, following the route that San Martin chose
for his army in 1817.
Why would anybody in his or her right mind want to endure
such a punishment instead of enjoying the beach? Who knows?
Many ideas come to my mind: Suicide tendencies? …
To prove that you can? … Spirit of adventure?…
Love for history? (there were daily history classes about
San Martin’s life and battles etc.). The only thing
I’m sure about is that after 8 days -and lots of cream
for my buttocks - I can truly say that I enjoyed it and
would do it again!!
This was the seventh expedition organized by the Sanmartinian
Cultural Association Cradle of the Flag, a non-profit organization
based in Rosario. It was the largest expedition, since San
Martin crossed the Andes in 1817, made by more than 150
Argentine civilians, 52 of them women and about 30 army
staff from every corner of the country, from Santa Cruz
to Salta. The group ranged in ages between
14 and 75 years old. There were 3 people from Mar del Plata,
Guillermo Mackinlay, Alfredo Jovtis and myself.
All the expeditionaries -that was the name for us - went
through a selection process where your knowledge of history,
fitness, moral integrity and other considerations were thoroughly
tested. Of course, in our case, as they were in need for
amusement, we were only accepted when I
mentioned that we could sing and play the guitar. I don’t
think we fit exactly the profile. None
of us had great skills to ride mules, or
were in great physical shape, excepting
Guillermo, that patiently tried to train us at his “campo.”
The result: Alfredo’s broken knee that almost deprived
him of traveling.
After long preparations -you have to put together lots of
pieces of equipment, such as sleeping bags, gear, first
aid kits etc.-we were finally ready and the great day came.
The journey started in Plumerillo, Mendoza where San Martin
prepared his army with a touching ceremony where the army,
relatives and many people came to bid us
a farewell.
The first stop, where we camped, was Estancia Canota, where
San Martin and Las Heras separated the two columns for the
crossing. The mules were distributed and some training on
how to saddle and ride was intended. My
mule was a beautiful redhead, which I named Maria Delia,
after my girlfriend, because of her beauty and smooth character
-she only threw me once to the floor and kicked me a couple
of times.
|
|
That
day, I learned a lot about mules: a mix of a donkey and a
mare. They kick, they throw you if they don’t
like you, and they cannot be corrupted (I tried to conquer
mine with sugar, biscuits, etc., but never worked). But they
are incredibly reliable to ride in the mountains
(I imagine this is just for self preservation, not because
they love you). It wasn’t just because
that San Martin took more than 10000 mules for the crossing
and that he preferred them to horses.
When the night fell, we (the singing trio) made our debut
in front of our audience with great success. After three nights
of singing the same songs again and again, the success was
not so great, but luckily there was no other choice.
On the following days, the routine had already been established.
Up at 5:30 or 6, mass for the faithful, breakfast
(mate cocido), and history class -as they later found out
that I knew something about geology and rocks, they asked
me to give several talks, and I was forced to use my imagination.
After that, we had to prepare the mules, mount and get ready
to go. We got into one or two lines
depending on the terrain, extending the lines for more than
1 km. It was an amazing sight. You really felt part of an
army going to liberate Chile!! After 3 or 4 hours under the
sun, you didn’t feel so heroic, but when you looked
around… the mountains… the Condors…the Guanacos
… your soul revived! (A touch of whisky helped too!)The
march continued for an average of 10 hours,
making 40-50 km.-journeys, more than 240 Km. altogether; crossing
valleys, rivers, altitudes over 4000mts. and some scary passes
not wider than 50 cm. Two days later, we arrived at Uspallata,
and the whole town received us as if we were heroes parading
through the main street.
After resting for a day, we continued to Polvaredas (never
a name so well put), an abandoned train station at 2500mts.,
where we slept, and continued to Puente del Inca, where we
bathed in the thermal waters, trying to relieve saddle sores.
We resumed our journey riding through Punta
de Vacas to the Cristo Redentor at 4500mts. above sea level,
a symbol of peace between Chile and Argentina, where we embraced
each other with tears in our eyes and deposited earth brought
from Malvinas. |
|
When the trip ended and we returned the mules, a mixture of
feelings invaded me. Relief and happiness for havingcompleted
the trip, for being able to appreciate what San Martin had
done almost 200 years ago so that we could have a free country
-though many of us today take it for granted - and sadness
because a great spirit had been displayed among us, after
sharing and enjoying so many experiences.
This is an educational journey that every Argentine should
do, especially the young ones. It’s an unforgettable
experience that will leave a lasting mark in your soul. (And
in your buttocks!)
More information about the crossing at:
www.crucedelosandes.com.ar
Top |
| Glossary |
endure:
soportar
range: oscila
amusement: diversión
fit: encajar
skills: habilidades
in shape: en forma
deprive of: privar
relatives: familiares
farewell: despedida
|
to saddle:
ensillar
mare: yegua
reliable: confiable
just because: porque sí
mass: misa
get into lines: formar
average: promedio
parade: desfilar
resume: retomar |
Top |
|
|
